Granite Chief Wilderness and Desolation Wilderness

Starting Trail Mile 1129.7 hiking south.  Elevation 8388 ft.

Looking ahead to where the trail will take me today.

Starting out on a glorious morning, the hiking is easier, with a only a few shorter climbs today,  although I did go over Barker Pass.  Lots of hikers on the trail, many of which are day hikers, or backpackers doing the Tahoe Rim Trail.  Many of the PCT thru hikers are fresh back on the trail after taking zeros in South Lake Tahoe or Tahoe City.  They've showered, some have shaved, their clothes are clean and they are well fed, having taken advantage of the casino buffets in town.

Another hiker offers to take my pic with Lake Tahoe peeking through in the background.

Partway through the day, I come upon a wonderful waterfall tumbling into a beautiful stream with a perfect spot to sit and soak my feet.  If I'd had more time, I'd put my whole body in because there was a perfect deep spot that would have served the purpose, and the day is fairly warm.  I talk to a hiker from Switzerland.  She tells me her boyfriend joined her for the high Sierras.  Since Marv is planning to do the same, I pick her brain for the best way to work the system in order to get Marv a permit for that part of the trail when I again turn north. 

Nice cool stream to soak my hot feet.

I hiked into the Granite Chief Wilderness yesterday.  Today, I leave it and enter Desolation Wilderness with mostly Jeffery and Lodgepole pines growing in a rocky landscape.  I hike past lovely Richardson Lake, and I long to join a large group of hikers I see swimming and settling in for the evening.  However, I feel I must get a few more miles in, so I wave and hike on.  Once I do decide to camp, just before the sun sets, a young Austrian hiker camps a small distance away, up a bit closer to the trail.  I visit with him when I take a walk past his tent to find a place to put my bear vault containing my food and all other scented things, like toiletries (bear vaults or bear bags hung in trees should be about 200 feet from where I am sleeping).  He has just done a 300 mile section of the PCT, doing research so that he and his girlfriend can hike the entire PCT next year.  At this point, he is not sure he wants to come back to do the whole trail.  He has found it much more challenging than he anticipated.  He gets off the trail to fly home in a couple of days.

Lovely Richardson Lake toward the end of another day in Paradise.

More Windy Ridges - Tahoe Rim Trail

Starting Trail Mile 1143.9 going south.  Elevation 7739

The sun rises, but I've already been hiking for an hour.

The 165-mile Tahoe Rim Trail and the PCT are one and the same for much of my hike the next few days.  There is lots of up and downhill climbing and descending.  However, the amazing vistas and abundance of wildflowers make the effort worth it.  I do have to cross two very exposed, windy ridges.  I don't mind the wind behind me as it helps push me along, but when it blows from the side, I fear being hurled off the mountain.

Wildflowers are abundant, the fragrance amazing!

I have two different views of Lake Tahoe, one in the early morning and again in late afternoon.

Glimpse of Lake Tahoe in the distance

I'm very tired and my feet feel stressed as I'm carrying extra food for a longer stretch on the trail.  It feels particularly heavy, although my pack is no longer giving me any problems.  I pass many NOBOs who are cheery as the day is beautiful, the sights are breath-taking and the fragrance amazing.  I have a short conversation with a hiker named Nightcrawler, who gives me the scoop on the trail ahead of me.  I notice that he and many other male hikers wear skirts and I even pass two guys in kilts. Hmmm!  I wonder if this is more comfortable.  In late afternoon, I talk to a young man named Cheeto, doing the PCT as his first-ever backpacking trip.  He tells me that he is learning from other hikers as he goes and that today will be his first 30 mile day!  Wow!  I'm impressed.  I doubt I'll ever see a 30-mile day.  Not sure I want to!
As I hike across a ridge, I see what I think are two small bears playing.  As I get closer, I realize they have long bushy tails and are actually a pair of wolverines.  Their coats are so beautiful and they are so busy with their chase and wrestling with each other, they don't really notice me.  I am downwind.  I try to take a picture, but just as I get them in focus, one jumps on the other and they tumble out of site on the backside of the rock outcropping they are playing on.  I do manage to get a picture of a marmot that is angrily chirping at me.  You can see how hard the wind is blowing by looking at his fur.
Another fun fact is that the last time I resupplied and switched my bear bag for a bear vault, I left my spork in the previous food bag.  The only thing I have to eat with is the trowel I use to dig cat holes with.  Since it is only dirt, I scrub it good and try to keep it clean for eating.

I hike under the ski lift for Tahoe

I feel like this tree as the wind blows me sideways too!

Very weird flower that looks like painted bubbles.

Marmot gives me a piece of his mind.

Donner Pass and No Lives Were Lost

Mile 1157.0 - still hiking south.  Elevation 7201

As the pack saga continues, you must know that the pack I had before was no longer being made.  The new version did not have the handy hip-belt pockets I loved, so Marv looked on Amazon and they had a few of the older version that I previously had and in the smaller size.  After receiving it and marching up and down the hills around our campground, I felt like Goldilocks...the first pack was too large, the second pack was too ouchy (and red), but the third pack was JUST RIGHT!  Hallelujah, we have a winner!   Back to the trail!  I will begin this next segment where the trail crosses I-80 ) still in California.

Beautiful little pond.

This part of the trail started out smooth and soft on the forest floor, but quickly turns rocky.  I see Donner's Lake and go over Donner's Pass (7080 ft), in and out of forest, climbing onto exposed ridges for most of the day.  The ridges are so windy that I must use my poles to stay upright, fearing I'll be blown off the mountain.

Have to tie my hat tight keep from blowing away.

 From this vantage point, I can see that I'll be hiking a ridge-line for miles and miles over the next couple of days as I cross Mount Judah, Roller Pass, Mount Lincoln and Anderson Peak.  I pass through grassy hillsides and sloping meadows of wildflowers as I ascend Tinker's Knob.  I also hike through my first (very small) snow field.  Tinker's Knob is about a 1000 ft climb to a treeless hunk of rock, probably 100 feet high.

This pic does not show the brilliant colors of the hillside of wildflowers.

From the trees, you can tell the wind is relentless.

I see that the camp area I was hoping to reach after Tinker's Knob will be on an exposed ridge and I've learned my lesson about trying to get any sleep on a windy ridge.  I elect to stop a bit early, get water in a nice babbling brook and camp just above the stream.  As I'm setting up, another hiker named Coyote asks if he can camp nearby.  I welcome having another person in the area.  Since the bear scare, I've been more comfortable at night knowing another person is around.  Before that, I had actually enjoyed camping by myself.  The night was very quiet and I slept like a log from about 8:30 pm until I awoke at 5:00 am.  I retrieve my bear vault, eat a protein bar while I pack up, bid Coyote farewell as he too packed up, and hit the trail.

Go right.

Snow shed over train tracks on opposite mountain.

Donner Lake

Sign as I cross Hwy 40 at Donner Summit

Rocky trail over the summit

I see quite a lot of snow fields, although they are melting quickly.

I come to my first snow field crossing.

Elevation nearing 9000 feet

Tinker's Knob in the distance

A sign laying on the ground from the ski area.  Not to worry, I never go very fast!

2 Bears, 2 Rattle Snakes & 2 Black-tail Deer

Approximately Trail mile 1289, traveling south.  Elevation1286.8 ft in Belden

Packing up to go, just before bear encounter.

I camp a few miles outside of Belden Town, CA.  I had planned to get to town the night before, but a hiker going north told me that there was a big festival in town with loud music and nowhere to stay.  I found a nice camp site, knowing the hike the next day would all be downhill, dropping in elevation by nearly 4000 feet.  I woke up about 6:30 am and retrieved my food bag from the tree.  I took some ibuprofen, ate a little and not feeling well, decided to lay down for a bit before hitting the trail.  Stupidly, I left my food bag against the tree, thinking I would only rest for a few minutes.  I fell back asleep for two hours.  When I awoke, I quickly packed up.  Just as I was getting ready to hoist my pack, I look up to see two bears loping toward me, about 60 feet away.  I hurriedly flip the safety off of my bear spray (it will shoot 30 feet).  I grab my trekking poles, stand up on a rock that is about 2 feet tall (so I look bigger) and clack my poles together.  The front bear spots me and quickly turns up the hill, with the second bear right behind.  I sit down on the rock and shake violently for at least 10 minutes, especially when I realize that I'd been sleeping for 2 hours with my open food bag leaning on a tree, 3 feet from me.  Stupid, stupid, stupid!
After gaining my composure, I start hiking. Within a couple of miles, I encounter two rattlesnakes.  One was very small and scooted quickly across the trail.  The other was bigger, coiled under a bush at the side of the trail and rattling.  I back up and wait until it feels safe from me, uncoils and slithers away.  I then stop at Rattlesnake Spring for water.  How appropriate!

Ankle-twisting trail down to Belden.

Rattlesnake Spring

A bit later, I finally see two things that don't terrify me, a mommy deer and her little one dart across the trail and up the hill.  I am hiking almost exclusively downhill.  Much of the trail is of the ankle- twisting type, like hiking down an old creek bed or runoff channel. I have to pay special attention to foot placement.

River winding into Belden

The last couple of miles is smoother trail, but I'm now on a hot, exposed ridge.  The temps are over 90 degrees.  I can hear music coming from the valley below.  There is a beautiful river that looks inviting.

More pretty flowers

As I enter town and cross the bridge over the river, I'm greeted by event information persons.  I don't have to pay to enter, but they give me a pink wrist band, identifying me as a PCT hiker.  They show me on a map that there is an area reserved for PCT hikers to camp about 1/2 mile down the river.  The distance is to get us far enough away from the all night music to be able to sleep.
The first thing I do is shower with tokens from the Belden Town Resort.  I buy a $12 handkerchief dress to change into while I put all my hiking clothes in the laundry.  While they wash, I go across the street and order a huge burger at the resort.  The food is delicious, large portions and for a resort, the prices aren't bad.  Despite the yummy food, I'm having trouble making myself eat.  I force myself to eat slowly as I know I need the nutrition.  I'm hoping it will make me feel better.

Coming down the trail into Belden

Tent area along the river, reserved for PCT hikers, although we find other festival-goers putting larger tents up here as well.

Downtown Belden and Resort.

A couple of hours later, I am finally in my tent.  Camped next to me are some musicians who will perform later in town.  Although they are not to be camped with the hikers, the two young men are practicing their set for their later performance on stage.  As it turns out, I love the music and they are exceptionally good.  I lean out of my tent, clapping and tell them that I'm really enjoying my own private concert.

I then call Marv to tell him that I'm not feeling well and that my pack is absolutely killing me.  I'm having nervy pain in one shoulder and my back is in constant spasm.  These are problems I never experienced with my old pack, even if it didn't fit exactly right.  After some discussion, we decide that he will order me a pack just like I had before, except a smaller torso size.  He will come pick me up, I will practice hiking around the campground where he is staying with the new pack.  If the problem is resolved, I will again get back to the trail.

Another Beautiful Day in Paradise

Starting Trail Mile 1320.8 and elevation 7351 ft.

After once again sleeping until the other hikers had parted, I slowly roll out of bed and prepare to hike.  I'm low on water, but know that there is a flowing spring coming up.  I take a couple of bites of protein bar and delay breakfast until I reach Cold Springs.  As I begin to hike, I immediately find myself hiking through beautiful meadows of fragrant wild flowers and many different types of butterflies.  I stop at Cold Springs.  It is a natural spring that has been piped into a trough for cattle, and is a bonus for hikers passing through.  I'm actually crossing a private ranch.  The spring lives up to its name because the water is so cold that my hands are frozen by the time I get my filtering work done.  It is wonderful tasting and I enjoy the easy access as this is only 300 feet off the trail.

The fragrance is amazing!

There began to be stream after stream to cross.  I counted at least 20 smaller streams and 3 larger river crossings.  I did well, not getting my feet wet except for one very wide crossing.  I thought I had picked a good path, although the rock steps were further apart.  About half way across, one rock was particularly slippery and in I went.  The water was shallow, but deep enough to get both feet thoroughly wet.  I had to walk for the next 9 miles of the day with wet feet.  I was definitely glad to take off those shoes and dry my feet at the end of the day.

Lovely split-rail fence on ranch approaching spring.

Cold Springs captured and piped into trough for cattle (and hikers)

Cold Springs

Huge downed tress in old growth forest.

Black-tail buck turning to run after spotting me.

Another new wild flower to enjoy!

Lots of sunflowers.

Lots of butterflies all day.

                         








































 One toe is bruised purple and I have shooting pain in that toe that lasts until 3 am.  Unfortunately, my ibuprofen was in my food bag high in a tree, at least 200 feet from my tent.  Another sleepless night.  Now I'm getting grumpy!

In many cases, Mother Nature provides stepping stones.

Will the logs roll or can I trust them to keep me dry?

Setting up for another night in the woods.

What Goes Bump in the Night and Trail Laundry

Starting Trail Mile 1321 and elevation 7349 ft.

I am trying to set several posts to publish automatically on certain dates as I've been without cell service more lately, and will be without entirely for at least a couple of weeks very soon.  So I won't be posting link updates on Facebook, but please check back about every 3-4 days for my next installment.  And the venture continues.

Even though I had a wonderful camping spot and my food was safely stored high in a tree, I did not sleep well.  I laid listening to sounds in the night, trying to determine what was the wind in the trees and what was animals moving around in the full moonlight.  Just as I was drifting off, I hear a loud thump, followed by a weird screech.  It was in the distance, but I lay trying to figure out what it could have been.  Even though I had my alarm set at 5 am, I lay in my nice warm bed feeling the sleeping time I had gotten was too short.  As I climbed out of my tent, I was rewarded with a doe and her two very tiny babies walking by.  As I reach for my phone to take a picture, my motion spooks the mom and they are gone.

Lots of downed trees.

Forest and interesting rock outcroppings.

Must hike down into a canyon for water.

I have to stop mid-morning for water.  I must hike 0.3 miles off the trail to a spring.  I decide to cook breakfast and do laundry.  With more natural water sources, I'm now carrying only one change of underwear and socks.  I find a nice flat spot to spread out, filter water, wash

Natural Cub Spring with cold, good tasting water.

Breakfast cooling, and laundry drying.

clothes and eat.  I'm tired  today, not liking my pack, and for some reason, really having to force myself to eat.  I make more adjustments to my pack, finish my duties and hike the very steep climb back up to the trail.
I enter a very dark, pine forest.
Then about 2-3 hours later, it opens out onto open lava beds with interesting rock formations and the return of my lizard friends scampering ahead of me on the trail.
The hike was beautiful throughout the day.


I had planned to camp at Cold Springs.  However, about 45 minutes before reaching the springs, I come upon a camp with several NOBO thru hikers.  Feeling safety in numbers, I ask to camp with them for the night, hoping for a night of better sleep.  This was not to be the case though.  I hear what sounds like a bear rolling a bear canister around across the trail.  The guy next to me shines his light in the general direction and yells at the sound.  It stops.  As I'm reading a book, something bumps the side of my tent.
I'm prompted up on my pack and the entire pack is pushed a bit.
I clamp my hands, and whatever it was moves on.  Needless to
say, it was another restless night.

Forest gives way to lava fields.

Top of the world,

Gorgeous!

Large burn area

Still going the right way.